LOAD CAPACITY: the load rating of the axle must support the maximum gross vehicle weight rating. For multiple axle trailers divide the GVWR by the number of axles to determine the minimum load capacity of each axle.
TRACK LENGTH: measure your axle track length by determining the distance between the center of one tire to the center of the other tire. A more precise measurement can be made by measuring the distance from one 'HUB FACE' to the other. The hub face is also known as the mounting surface where the wheel studs are located.
AXLE STYLE: important when reusing old mounting hardware and also for proper tire clearance. Includes straight axles (round or square), drop axles with offset spindles, and torsion axles. Also consider spindle size when reusing existing hubs or drums.
Dexter has been a leading manufacturer of trailer axles and trailer brakes with over 60 years in the utility trailer, recreation vehicle, heavy duty, manufactured housing, agricultural, marine, and specialty trailer markets.
Using an impact driver, breaker bar or wrench, remove all of the lug nuts from the wheel. Then, remove the wheel from the hub. If your trailer is especially rusty, this step may require a little extra elbow grease. Remove the wheels from both sides of the trailer and set them aside.
Using your floor jack again, lift up the axle beam at the center point. Be careful not to further damage the axle. Lift until the axle is raised enough to take pressure off the shackles on the ends. Then, place jack stands under the axle beam to support it.
With the axle properly supported, you can start to remove the bolts securing the shackles to the leaf springs. Once the nuts are removed, the bolts may need to be tapped out of their holes using a mallet and punch. With shackles removed, it is a good idea to inspect them for signs of wear or damage. Replace the shackles if necessary.
With all attaching bolts removed, lift the axle up at its center point once more, using your floor jack. Once it clears the jacks stands, slide them out. Then, lower the axle back down all the way to the floor and slide it out from under the trailer.
Slide your new axle assembly under the trailer, carefully resting it on its center point on the floor jack. Be sure to check that the axle is facing the correct direction! On Lippert axles, the ID tag should be facing toward the back of the trailer. Next, slowly raise it into the proper position, making adjustments as needed to line it up with the mounting points. Finally, with the axle positioned correctly, support it with the jack stands.
Starting with the hanger bolts, reattach the leaf springs to the trailer. You may need to make some fine adjustments to get the eyelets of your leaf springs to line up with the holes. Install the bolts in the hanger brackets first, and then reinstall the shackles, making sure to secure both sides of the trailer. It is also recommended that you apply grease to the bolts when reinstalling. Some bolts have a grease zerk that allows application using a grease gun. Standard bolts will need grease applied directly to the shaft before installation. Only finger-tighten until all the hardware has been replaced.
Now that your axle assembly is fully secured, you can rewire the trailer brakes. Splice the power wires together first, using a scotch lock. Make sure the fitting is tightly crimped! Then, splice the ground wires together using the same method.
The trailer axle beam is the center portion of the axle, the cylindrical tube component that spans the width of the trailer, connecting one hub to the other. The axle beam can be replaced without having to replace the entire axle assembly, following the steps provided in the video below.
The brake hub is the endcap portion of the trailer axle. It is the circular component onto which the wheel is bolted, allowing it to spin freely and smoothly. Trailer axle hub replacement can be completed independent of the axle beam and other suspension components.
The attaching hardware connects the leaf springs and equalizers to the hangers and trailer frames. Sometimes, this hardware becomes worn or damaged and needs replacing. The video below shows how to replace the attaching hardware or AP kit.
Getting a truck properly loaded and balanced is almost a science in the trucking industry. There are a lot of tools that help drivers understand how much they are hauling and how to adjust the truck and trailer to fit inside the required weight restrictions for gross and axle weights.
To know how to go about adjusting your loads it is important to know how much weight is allowed on each axle. By knowing how much is allowed on each axle group you will have a direction to work towards in order to get you axle weights legal.
If the truck and trailer is over the 80,000 lb gross limit then shifting your 5th wheel or trailer axles will not fix this problem. Your gross weight will always be the same when trying to adjust axles and loads. If this is your case you will need to go back to the shipper and get some of the load removed to become legal again or apply for an overweight permit for the states you plan to cross.
Now that you know what the limits are allowed on each axle you can figure out what you need to adjust on the truck or trailer in order shift the load more to the steer, drive or trailer axles to get inside the legal limits.
Before you can accurately adjust your loads you need to know much you are hauling on each axle. There are a couple of ways that you can scale trucks. The effectiveness of these methods depends on how your company operates and how involved drivers need to be to get their axle weights
Many trucks and trailers are equipped with a pressure gauge on their air suspension. Knowing how to read truck weights using a pressure gauge on air suspensions is a great way to figure out if a trucks drive axle or trailer axle is overloaded. This requires drivers to know what the maximum pressure is allowed on the axle before it is overloaded.
For example 61 psi may equal 34,000 pounds for a trailer axle. If the pressure gauge is ever over 61 psi then the axle is over loaded and the load should be adjusted to get the pressure below this max limit.
For carriers with multiple trucks, trailers and drivers who do drop-and-hook applications this may be difficult because every truck and trailer can be slightly different and requires all drivers to be aware of all of the max pressures for every piece of equipment.
If your drive axle is over the required 34,000 lbs but you are under the 12,000 lbs requirement for the steer axle, one way you can fix this is to shift your 5th wheel. By moving your 5th wheel forward you are shifting some of the load off of the drive axle onto the steer axle.
The general rule of thumb is that each hole on the 5th wheel shifts about 500 lbs to the other axle. This will vary across different makes and models of trucks so figuring out your specific settings is best.
By moving the 5th wheel toward the front of the truck you can estimate about 500 lbs getting added to the steer axle and 500 lbs getting removed from the drive axle. When you move the 5th wheel back towards the trailer you will be taking about 500 lbs off of the steer axle and adding it on to the drive axle.
If the drive axle is over its 34,000 lb limit then you can move some of the weight off of the drive axle by sliding the trailer tandems up closer to the drive axle. This will put more of the load on to the trailer axle.
To slide the trailer tandems find a flat surface, set the trailer brake and pull out the king pin that locks the trailer axle in place. If you need to move the tandems toward the front and closer to the drive axle just put the truck in reverse and move to the desired pin location. If you need to move the trailer tandem to the back of the trailer then put the truck into drive.
Depending on the type of trailer you are using each hole on the trailer frame typically adjust 250 lbs on 4 inch spacing or 400 lbs for a 6 inch spacing. So for each hole you move the trailer axle you are moving weight between the drive axle and the trailer axle.
So such operators often use 4x4 tractors, according to Markus Heuser, Germany-based director of global marketing communications for SAF-Holland. Of course, a front-driving axle adds weight and cost to the tractor.
Trailer axle and suspension systems from SAF-HOLLAND are available for a multitude of transport tasks. A wide product range features high quality, and innovative designs with the reliability demanded for the fleet application specified.
The Triton 14652 "E" Series" Pontoon Axle is a 2200 lb. torsion axle replacement for Triton Model E Pontoon Trailers. It can also be used to add an second axle to the Triton E Pontoon trailers to aid in towing stability and safety.
This axle is ONLY for Triton "E" Series Cantilever Pontoon trailers manufactured from 2004-Current. This axle will not work with other and/or older Triton Pontoon trailers. Please call and speak to one of our Triton experts if you have any other Triton Pontoon trailer. Please double check to make sure you are ordering the correct axle before you purchase.
Whether you have utility trailers, dump trailers, gooseneck or car haulers, you would be carrying some sort of cargo with you. Checking up on your axle, an essential part of your entire set up, can save you from potential losses as mentioned.
A bearing is made of a cup and a cone. The cup is pressed into the central part of the axle and the cone contained the actual ball bearings. Your bearings should be kept well-greased at all times to protect them from heat caused by friction.
While doing the wipe down, check whether the bearings have any cracks, dents or any opening that seems like it may break. If they are damaged, they should be replaced as a set for the cup and cone according to the load rating of the trailer.
Run your hands along the race to find any signs of damage. Any discoloration can cause an improper fit and can cause noise during acceleration or deceleration. If you do find a fault make sure you write down the trailer axle part number for quick reference for a replacement. 041b061a72